PHUKET to PENANG
Leaving Phuket for Malaysia, it was now “Terrorists” not “Tourists” that we had to avoid. Thanks to the good people at the Australian Consulate in Bangkok, we had learned of the recent trouble in Southern Thailand and had hatched a cunning plan to avoid it – take a ferry from Satun (Thailand) to Langkawi, then another onto mainland Malaysia. It may sound simple, even pleasurable, but we were taking no chances and began our preparations immediately.
Krabi, with its picture perfect beaches, blue water and majestic cliffs would be perfect. For nine intensive days, we swam, read books, threw frisbees, visited islands, watched sunsets and dined our way to readiness. Finally, for that critical “eye of the tiger” we would need to survive, our choice of accommodation had been perfect – right next door to the local kick boxing stadium! “Muay Thai, Muay Thai – Tonight, Tonight”. We were fired up and ready – it was now or never.
Leaving Krabi, we carefully pedaled though the rubber plantations, passed brilliantly decorated Mosques and quiet fishing villages to reach Satun – the end of the road, for us in Thailand. It was hot and sweaty, but apart from that uneventful – could it really be this easy??
For little more than a few dollars, a modern “stealth” ferry whisked us and our bikes onto Langkawi. The only moment of “fear” we experienced, was almost losing our bikes overboard as we unloaded them onto the jetty.
We had done it – we had avoided the terrorists! Of course, this was no piece of cake, but nothing two fearless adventure cyclists couldn’t manage (smile). If you’re travelling overland from Thailand to Malaysia – we would definitely recommend it.
From there, we caught another ferry to the mainland (Kuala Kedah), then a quick pedal down to Penang, where we have met Jess’s parents for a week off to recuperate!
Australia is close now – we have only 1,000 kms to go before Singapore. While Darwin is still a long way from our finish in Melbourne, the idea, has a certain good feeling about it. We can’t wait!
Jules & Jess
The road through Phangnga National Park to Krabi
Krabi - the perfect place to get that "eye of the tiger" and prepare for the Terrorists
It would be our toughest challenge yet
Could we do it?
Intensive training begins - sunset watching
Keeping up our strength at a roadside lunch stall
Learning new skills - boat handling
Observation training
To the untrained it may look easy...
The beautiful Maya Bay, Phi Phi Islands (from "The Beach" movie!)
Colourful local long boats
The final preparation - a mean looking haircut !
Saying goodbye to King and Country in Satun (gotta love the Nikon!)
Our modern "stealth" ferry to Langkawi
We had done it! Now a week off in Penang with Jess's parents to recuperate!
BANGKOK to PHUKET
Ask Shane, and he will tell you – it is 1,020 kms from Bangkok to Phuket. This was no holiday, or easy ride – it was 12-day, body bruising, real adventure – and one we were pleased to have shared…
From Bangkok, we took the main highway, first west then south. This is not the most enjoyable riding, especially when it’s raining and your being chased by dogs, but it was necessary and got us out of the capital and down the coast quickly.
Ban Krud was stunning and provided our first real “tropical” riding experience. We literally pedaled along the beach and through the palm trees – and yes, you do have to watch out for falling coconuts!!
Chumpon, 550 kms south of Bangkok, was our half way mark, and it’s fair to say, no one was looking forward to our planned day off more than Shane. Right on the beach, it was the perfect place to rest our sore muscles and aching backsides.
From there, we crossed over the jungle covered mountains that divide Thailand, and got our first glimpses of Burma and the beautiful Andaman Coast. It is rewarding riding, but hard work in this heat…
After a long day, and running short of time, we had to seek refuge with the monks in the temple at Khao Fa Chi. Staying with them was a great experience, that is of course, you don’t mind getting up early – the day here starts at 4.15am!
Khao Lak is the real gem along this stretch. Relaxing on the beach, it is hard to be believe, this stunningly blue and tranquil water, could have delivered such a devastating tsunami. Funny too, that we didn’t mind having to take a first floor apartment, because all the beachside bungalows were booked…
The final day into Phuket was a real tough one – even for us, which doesn’t happen so often these days – but Shane could smell the finish line, and no mountains were going to stop him getting there now.
I think the victory photo on the beach tells the story pretty well… Congratulations, mate – you made it! Awesomeness!!!
We certainly had earned our dinner with Luke and Carly (Jess’s brother and partner) who just happened to be out holidaying in Phuket too.
Jules & Jess
The start line - Shane's apartment in Bangkok
A happy man, after 95kms, and the end of day 1
Jess & Shane after having survived another dog chase
A hilly detour through Sam Roi Yot National Park
Lunch time
The joys (and horrors) of petrol station toilet stops
Real "tropical" riding, Ban Krud
How sweet! Our own table set in the garden by the hotel staff
Waking up in the morning in, Chumpon
Up and over the mountains that divide Thailand
That's Burma over the river !!
Our room in the temple, Khao Fa Chi
Early start from the temple (we've been awake for 2hrs already!)
Khao Lak, a real gem
Tsunami territory
Jess sweating it out on the hills into Phuket
Congrats mate, you made it! 1,020 kms Bangkok to Phuket
The celebration dinner with Luke & Carly (Jess's brother and partner)
HO CHI MINH to BANGKOK
Cambodia was the setting for our “silly season” – and what a pleasant surprise it turned out to be…
The people were incredibly friendly. Their smiles are so big, you couldn’t help but join in. The road condition was also much better than we had feared. The only real hazard, was avoiding the numerous speeding government officials in their luxury 4WDs! Cambodia is poor, so you have to be prepared for that, but it was a great country to cycle through and really does offer a lot more than Angkor Wat!!
Speaking of which, Angkor Wat (Siem Reap) is where we spent our Xmas. It was a relaxing (and lazy) break. A hotel with a pool, lots of yummy food, and when we finally got sick of that – a ride around the amazing Angkor temples. We usually get “templed out” pretty quick, but we must say, these are worth the effort!
We then pedaled to Bangkok, to spend New Year’s Eve with our good friends, Shane and Joop. Bangkok has never disappointed, and didn’t this time, which largely has to do with Shane being such a perfect host. We counted down to 2010 in style at an Italian restaurant, watching fireworks from the roof, wearing silly hats and blowing annoying trumpets. It was the perfect end, to an incredible year!
Shane has now decided to join us for the ride down the coast to Phuket. It is going to be hot, and involve crossing the mountains that run down the spine of Thailand. It is about 1,000 kms, and will take us just under two weeks to complete. But what makes it most impressive – Shane can’t even remember the last time he rode a bike!! It’s sure to be a great adventure – stay tuned.
Jules & Jess
Classic Cambodia!
Two cyclistas in Phnom Penh
Jess "on the road" in Cambodia
A typical Cambodian house
We are not alone! Another cyclist leaving their mark
Where we spent Xmas... by the pool
I scream, you scream, we all scream ice-cream
Dinner out on the town, Siem Reap
The daddy - Angkor Wat
The many faces of Angkor Thom
Bumper to bumper elephants riding between the temples
Ta Phrom... choked by the trees
Pedaling to NYE in Bangkok
Shane & Joop
Silly hats & annoying trumpets
Happy New Year 2010 !!